Clínica de Vinos de Salta: Terroir de los Valles Calchaquíes Salteños. Segunda parte

 

La segunda parte de la Clínica de Vinos de Salta,  realizada en el Faena Art, Buenos Aires, consistió en una cata a ciegas de  Torrontés, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon,   Tannat y  Blends.

Con respecto a dichas variedades, se describieron de la siguiente manera:

Torrontés

 

 

Se trata hasta ahora la única uva criolla ( originaria de América ) de alto valor enológico. Los vinos de uva torrontés han logrado un notable reconocimiento en el mercado y actualmente constituyen la segunda exportación de vinos blancos en Argentina.

 

Cata a ciegas de Torrontés. Cosechas: 2015/16. Altura: 1700msnm-1850msnm. Crianza: botella, barricas de roble, o fermentado en barricas de roble y reposado un año en las mismas

(Mis preferidos, cosecha 2015. Fermentación en huevo. Muy sutil, interesante estructura, y largo final. Equilibrado  y 2016:  Blend de torrontés,con gran frescura y expresión)

Hay tres tipos de torrontés:

  1. Riojano: tiene la particularidad de que entrega vinos varietales muy aromáticos. Se cultiva en Catamarca, La Rioja, Salta y San Juan, donde erróneamente se lo conoce como Malvasía o Moscato D´Asti.
  2. Sanjuanino: se lo conoce como Torrontés romano y en Chile Torrontés de Austria, muy utilizados para Pisco y Aguardiente.  En general, de menor importancia enológica.
  3. Mendocino: conocida como Pelet o Loca Blanca, la pulpa es nuetra y de poca importancia enológica.

 

Malbec

La provincia de Salta es la 4º provincia del país en cuanto a superficie de vid, con 3.245 ha
(2016) cultivadas, representa el 1,4% del total. Ha registrado un aumento del 81% (+1.451 ha) desde el
año 2000. Ese año, Salta ocupaba el 6º lugar en el país. (INV)

INV

El aumento del 81% de la superficie de vid de la provincia corresponde a variedades aptas para
elaboración, principalmente de variedades tintas destinadas a la obtención de vinos de alta calidad.
Las variedades más cultivadas son Malbec y Cabernet Sauvignon.

De las 16 variedades de mayor superficie en la provincia, hay 13 que aumentaron su superficie.
Entre ellas figuran 10 tintas y 3 blancas. La variedad Malbec es la que mayor aumento de superficie
registra en el período (+956 ha). Las tres variedades blancas que aumentaron su superficie son:
Torrontés Riojano (+78 ha), Sauvignon Blanc (+45 ha) y Chardonnay (+12 ha).
En Salta se registran en el año 2016, 54 ha de variedades rosadas, de las cuales 39 ha
corresponden a Criolla Chica, 9 ha de Moscatel Rosado y 3 ha de Cereza. Tanto Criolla Chica como
Moscatel Rosado disminuyeron su superficie desde el año 2000.

 

Cata a ciegas de Malbec. Cosecha: 2013/14/17. Altura: de 1700 a 3111msnm. Crianza: barricas de roble frances, o en botella.

(Mis preferidos: cosecha 2017. La Merced. Intensidad, aromático, y con gran complejidad por adelante. Fresco y; cosecha 2013. Tolombón. Mostró lo bien que ha evolucionado. Carácter y expresión.)

 

Cabernet Sauvignon

 

Nacionalmente es la 3era variedad tinta en importancia después del Malbec y el Bonarda.  Es la 2da variedad de vino exportada después del Malbec.

En el NOA es la tinta más implantada en La Rioja y la 2da tinta en importancia en Salta.

El CS y las Pirazinas: Son un grupo de compuestos químicos responsables de generar el aroma de pimiento morrón en algunos vinos. (CF,CS, Merlot y SBlanc y otras variedades emparentadas genéticamente). La  concentración de pirazinas disminuye a medida que madura la uva por lo que en ocasiones altos niveles de esta molécula  en el vino se asocia con una falta de maduración en la uva. ¿ Y en Salta? Pensamos que el aroma  a pimiento en los vinos salteños debe ser considerado un descriptor típico, y no como un indicador de falta de madurez como en otras regiones vitivinícolas.  Existen, sin embargo, opciones de manejo agronómico que disminuyen o eliminan las pirazinas.

 

Cata a ciegas de C Sauvignon. Cosecha: 2015 Altura: 1700/ 1750msnm. Crianza: sin madera, en botella, barricas en roble francés.

(Mi preferido: cosecha 2014 de Cafayate. Sutil. Marcada la aparición de especias. Notas mentoladas)

Tannat

 

A continuación se analiza la evolución desde el año 2000 hasta el 2016 de las principales
variedades cultivadas en el país, aptas para elaboración de vinos y/o mostos.

El tannat ha aumentado en superficie con una diferencia en ha de 701.

 

 

Cata a ciegas de Tannat. Cosecha: 2014 al 2016. Altura 1700 msnm Crianza: barricas de roble francés y americano.

( Mi preferido: Cosecha 2016. Tolombón. Taninos suaves. Agradable. Presenta algo de dulzor y largo final)

Blends

  1. Cosecha 2012. Variedades: Malbec/CF/CS.
  2. Cosecha 2015. Variedades: Tannat/CS
  3. Cosecha 2013. Variedades Malbec/Tannat/CS
  4. Cosecha 2015. Variedades: Tannat/CF/CS/Malbec

(Mi preferido: blend cosecha 2012. Según los datos brindados es un vino de alta gama. Gran personalidad, con un interesante bouquet y final en boca.)

 

 

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